سیر تطور سرجامه‌های اندرونی و بیرونی زنان بر اساس روان شناسی فرهنگی در عصر قاجار

محورهای موضوعی : هنر و معماری

آمنه مافی تبار ¹ (استادیار، گروه طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشکده هنرهای کاربردی، دانشگاه هنر، تهران، ایران.)
سید عبدالمجید شریف زاده ² (استادیار، گروه پژوهش هنرهای سنتی، پژوهشگاه سازمان میراث فرهنگی و گردشگری، تهران، ایران.)

تاریخ دریافت : 1401/10/05 تاریخ پذیرش : 1401/11/21 تاریخ انتشار : 1402/01/01

کلید واژه: سرجامة بیرونی, عصر قاجار, روان شناسی فرهنگی, سرجامة اندرونی,

چکیده مقاله :

هدف پژوهش حاضر، بررسی سیر تطور سرجامه های اندرونی و بیرونی زنان بر اساس روان شناسی فرهنگی در عصر قاجار بود. جامعة پژوهش، کلیة متون روان شناسی فرهنگی و تاریخ نگاری مربوط به سرجامگان زنان عصر قاجار بود. نمونة پژوهش، انواع سرجامة زنانه عصر قاجار بود که به صورت هدفمند بر تاج، تاج کلاه، سربند، عرقچین، لچک و چارقد، چادر، چادر گل دار، روبنده و پیچه مشتمل شد. روش پژوهش کیفی به شیوة توصیفی ـ تحلیلی است. جمع آوری اطلاعات کتابخانه ای، به صورت فیش برداری و بررسی تصاویر ازمیان منابع روان شناسی فرهنگی و تاریخ نگاری موجود، مورد بررسی قرار گرفت. نتایج نشان داد که در طول تاریخ حکومت قاجاریان، در باب سرجامگان زنانة فضای اندرونی؛ تاج و تاج کلاه در طبقات فرادست جای خود را به چارقد و لچک سپرد؛ اما درمقابل پوشش سر در فضای بیرونی تقریباً ثابت باقی ماند و سرجامة اندرونی در مرور ایام، کامل تر و کم تکلف تر شد. از سوی دیگر؛ در برابر این دگرگونی در فضای داخلی، سرجامة بیرونی یعنی چادر، روبنده و پیچه بود که تقریباً به سنت پیشین خود وفاداری نشان داد و در طول حیات خود، با تغییر جزیی در جنس، پیچه های بافته شده از موی اسب جایگزین روبنده های پارچه ای شد. درمجموع می توان نتیجه گرفت درمقابل تنوع و دیگرگونی در انواع سرجامگان زنانة اندرونی در عصر قاجار ازیک سو و منسوجات کاربردی در تهیة آن ها از سوی دیگر؛ پوشش سر در بیرون، محدود و ثابت ماند.

چکیده انگلیسی:

The present study aimed  investigating the development of female headgear of the Qajar era in the in-private  and in-public based on cultural psychology. The research universe consisted of all  cultural psychology and historical texts on female headgear in the Qajar era. Study sample purposively embraced all types of female headgear of the Qajar era such as Taj, Taj Kolah, Sarband, Araqchin, Lachak, Charqad, Chador, Chador-e Godar, Rubandeh, and Picheh. The study was conducted using a qualitative descriptive-analytical method. The data was collected via library method through taking notes and assessing images from the existing cultural psychology and historical sources. The results showed that through the course of the Qajar Dynasty, the in-private female headgear of the upper class changed from Taj and Taj Kolah to Charqad and Lachak, while the in-public headgears remained relatively the same. That means, while in-private headgears had gradually become more complete but less complicated, the in-public headgears, namely Chador, Rubndeh, and Picheh, stood nearly loyal to their traditional form with very little changes, such as replacement of fabric-made Pichesh with horse-hair-woven ones. Generally, it could be concluded that despite diversity and changes in the form and material of in-private female headgears during the Qajar era, the in-public headgears remained limited and unchanged.

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