Study of Breaking Waves in the Bushehr Coast

Subject Areas : environmental management

Kamran Lari ¹ , Ali Karami Khaniki ² , Masoud Torabi azad1 Torabi azad ³ , Maliheh Abdolhay ⁴

1 - دکترای فیزیک دریا- استادیار گروه فیزیک دریا دانشکده علوم و فنون دریایی دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی واحد تهران شمال
2 - دکتری فیزیک دریا ، استادیار پژوهش مرکز تحقیقات خاک و آبخیزداری وزارت جهاد کشاورزی
3 - دکترای فیزیک دریا، استادیار گروه فیزیک دریا دانشکده علوم و فنون دریایی دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی واحد تهران
4 - کارشناس ارشد فیزیک دریا، دانشکده علوم و فنون دریایی ، دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی واحد علوم و تحقیقات تهران

Received: 2008-08-05 Accepted : 2009-01-19 Published : 2012-12-21

Keywords: Breaking wave, wave steepness, Bushehr coast,

Abstract :

The process of wave breaking is one of the most important events occurring in coastal zones. This process is so important at the point of coastal constructions and coastal industrial development and managing direction of beaches. On this research the bottom slope, breaker type, surf zone, wave length and wave height in break point, have been studied by using wave field parameters which are measured by  Bushehr coastal stations of Iran Meteorological  ( 28° 57' N & 50° 44' E) and region's hydrography maps. Utilizing the field data and practical relations and bottom slope, the maximum of breaking wave height is estimated as 2.65 m. Surf zone width is at least 42 m, although most of breaking waves occur in 200 m to 600 m distance of the beach. In next step, compute dimensionless steepness and relative wave height parameters and were compared with the findings of other scientists’ such as Sevendsen, Mc Cowan, Davies, Miche, Weggel. A correction coefficient concluded for Miche relationship in Bushehr coast. Maximum wave set down is calculated as 9.8 cm. Also in this region the type of breakers is mostly spilling breaker.