بازشناسی مفهوم مد و طراحی لباس اسلامی در پوشش زنان
محورهای موضوعی : هنر و معماری
زهرا اکبرزاده نیاکی
1
,
اعظم نعمتی چرمهینی
2
,
ربابه تقی زاده بروجنی
3
1 - دانشگاه حضرت معصومه (س) قم، گروه طراحی پارچه، قم، ایران.
2 - دانشگاه هنر تهران، گروه طراحی صنعتی، تهران، ایران.
3 - دانشگاه حضرت معصومه (س) قم، گروه طراحی پارچه، قم، ایران.
کلید واژه: لباس اسلامی, پوشش زنان, مفهوم مد,
چکیده مقاله :
هدف پژوهش حاضر بازشناسی مفهوم مد و طراحی لباس اسلامی در پوشش زنان بود. جامعه پژوهش شامل کلیه مجموعه‌های طراحی لباس می‌باشد. نمونه پژوهش لباس و پوشش اسلامی زنان بود. طرح پژوهش توصیفی-تحلیلی بود. گرد‌آوری اطلاعات با استفاده از منابع کتابخانه‌ای انجام گرفت. نتایج حاصل از تحلیل داده‌‌ها نشان داد، چهار اصطلاح پوشش مختلف به نام‌های حجاب، مد عفیفانه، لباس‌های قومی-محلی و لباس‌های غیر اسلامی با نقوش اسلامی در بین طراحی‌هایی که با مد اسلامی ارتباط دارند شناسایی شدند. طراحان فعلی لباس هنوز موفق به ساختن یک مد اسلامی جهانی که متمایز از مد غربی باشد و حتی مستقیماً با آن مخالفت کند نشده‌اند. تصویر ذهنی طراحان از مد اسلامی، بیشتر بر شاخصه‌های زیبایی‌شناختی مد استوار است تا رعایت شرعی حجاب و همچنین مد اسلامی هنوز تابعی از سیستم غربی پنداشته می‌شود و نتوانسته هویت مستقل خویش را بیابد. مداسلامی دارای ماهیتی واقعی است و برای مؤثر بودن، نیازمند بازتعریف و تدوین چارچوب‌های مشخص طراحی است. می‌توان چنین تحلیل کرد که سبک مد اسلامی موجود، هنوز هویت کاملاً مستقل به‌عنوان مد جهانی را نیافته است. مصرف‌کنندگان مسلمان خود نیز قابل‌جمع در یک دسته‌بندی واحدنیستند. سبک‌های خاص لباس ازنظر زیبایی‌شناسی فرهنگی، اقتصاد، الگوهای تجاری، آرمان‌ها و نحوه نمایش یا بیان ایمان، شکل‌گرفته است. درنتیجه می‌توان گفت که به تعداد شکل‌های حجاب، پوشش‌های متفاوتی از طراحی لباس اسلامی وجود دارد. مد اسلامی دارای سبک طراحی خاصی است و دارای ماهیت واقعی است، اما لازم است در طراحی و سایر فرآیندهای این صنعت تغییراتی ایجاد شود و تعاریف آن به‌روزرسانی و اجرا گردد.
The purpose of this study was to recognize the concept of fashion and design of the Islamic clothing in women's dresses. The research statistical universe included all clothing design collections. The research sample was the Islamic women's clothing and dresses. The research design was descriptive-analytical. Data collection was done by using library references. The results of data analysis showed that four different clothing terms, namely hijab, virtuous fashion, ethnic-local clothing and non-Islamic clothing with Islamic motifs, were identified among the designs related to Islamic fashion. Current clothing designers had not yet succeeded in creating a "global Islamic fashion" that was distinct from Western fashion and had not even been directly opposed to it. Designers' mental image of Islamic fashion was based more on the aesthetic features of fashion than the religious adherence to hijab, also, Islamic fashion was still considered as a subordinate of the Western system and has not been able to find its independent identity. Islamic fashion has a real nature and in order to be effective, it needs to redefine and formulate specific design frameworks. It could be analyzed that the existing Islamic fashion style had not yet found a completely independent identity as a global fashion. Muslim consumers themselves could not be grouped into a single category. Specific clothing styles were shaped by cultural aesthetics, economics, business patterns, ideals, and how faith was represented or expressed. As a result, it could be said that according to the number of hijab styles, there were different covers of Islamic clothing design. Islamic fashion had a special design style and had a real nature, but it is necessary to make changes in the design and other processes of this industry and its definitions should be updated and implemented.
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