سیر تطور سرجامه‌های اندرونی و بیرونی زنان بر اساس روان شناسی فرهنگی در عصر قاجار

الموضوعات :

آمنه مافی تبار ¹ , سید عبدالمجید شریف زاده ²

1 - استادیار، گروه طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشکده هنرهای کاربردی، دانشگاه هنر، تهران، ایران.
2 - استادیار، گروه پژوهش هنرهای سنتی، پژوهشگاه سازمان میراث فرهنگی و گردشگری، تهران، ایران.

تاريخ الإرسال : 02 الإثنين , جمادى الثانية, 1444 تاريخ التأكيد : 19 الجمعة , رجب, 1444 تاريخ الإصدار : 29 الثلاثاء , شعبان, 1444

الکلمات المفتاحية: سرجامة بیرونی, عصر قاجار, روان شناسی فرهنگی, سرجامة اندرونی,

ملخص المقالة :

هدف پژوهش حاضر، بررسی سیر تطور سرجامه های اندرونی و بیرونی زنان بر اساس روان شناسی فرهنگی در عصر قاجار بود. جامعة پژوهش، کلیة متون روان شناسی فرهنگی و تاریخ نگاری مربوط به سرجامگان زنان عصر قاجار بود. نمونة پژوهش، انواع سرجامة زنانه عصر قاجار بود که به صورت هدفمند بر تاج، تاج کلاه، سربند، عرقچین، لچک و چارقد، چادر، چادر گل دار، روبنده و پیچه مشتمل شد. روش پژوهش کیفی به شیوة توصیفی ـ تحلیلی است. جمع آوری اطلاعات کتابخانه ای، به صورت فیش برداری و بررسی تصاویر ازمیان منابع روان شناسی فرهنگی و تاریخ نگاری موجود، مورد بررسی قرار گرفت. نتایج نشان داد که در طول تاریخ حکومت قاجاریان، در باب سرجامگان زنانة فضای اندرونی؛ تاج و تاج کلاه در طبقات فرادست جای خود را به چارقد و لچک سپرد؛ اما درمقابل پوشش سر در فضای بیرونی تقریباً ثابت باقی ماند و سرجامة اندرونی در مرور ایام، کامل تر و کم تکلف تر شد. از سوی دیگر؛ در برابر این دگرگونی در فضای داخلی، سرجامة بیرونی یعنی چادر، روبنده و پیچه بود که تقریباً به سنت پیشین خود وفاداری نشان داد و در طول حیات خود، با تغییر جزیی در جنس، پیچه های بافته شده از موی اسب جایگزین روبنده های پارچه ای شد. درمجموع می توان نتیجه گرفت درمقابل تنوع و دیگرگونی در انواع سرجامگان زنانة اندرونی در عصر قاجار ازیک سو و منسوجات کاربردی در تهیة آن ها از سوی دیگر؛ پوشش سر در بیرون، محدود و ثابت ماند.

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